The Northern School of Art costume design lecturer Ian Bowden has been exploring the impact of men’s clothing designs on society’s opinions of what it means to be male.

In his ‘Evolving Masculinities’ project he aims to highlight how fashion has been at the forefront of changing attitudes about men expressing their individuality.

For his research Ian, pictured below, used his background in costume design for theatre, stage and screen to create a range of outfits that show how far opinions of what men can wear have changed.

Images of garments he created being modelled, including a sequinned top, corset and flowing sheer fabric shirt, were then photographed in traditionally viewed ‘alpha male’ environments and showcased online and at a street art exhibition in a skate park and public art space near Waterloo station in London.

Explaining why he included a sequin top Ian said: “Sequins have been used in many garments over the years, from a symbol of wealth and status, to ward off evil spirits to showcasing glamour.

“Although men have not been afraid to embrace embellishment and sequins, through the rise of celebrity culture, social media platforms and embracing their feminine side, sequins have started to be seen more frequently as a staple look for men.

“Ballroom, music, performance and high fashion have all embraced sequins within male clothing.”

Another garment made of sheer fabric is “another great way to explore the boundaries of masculinity,” he adds.

“Some fabrics are more outrageous, others can be simplified with the focus on how they are worn. I created a looser fitting sheer top, moving away from dance and fetish-inspired garments.”

Other items focused on corsets and censorship which “for men and women has been widely seen throughout history. From ancient Greeks censoring marble statues, Marie Antoinette being repainted to the more recent ‘free the nipple’ campaign.”

Once constructed, Ian’s designs were modelled and photographed in a fashion shoot at the photography studio at The Northern School of Art’s Hartlepool campus.

“I could then begin to explore the imagery within locations that were, or are still, deemed by society as a typical ‘alpha’ male environment,” he said.

As part of this, as a practical way to place the modelled garments in those settings, Ian photographed the photoshoot images in locations including a former pit head, in London’s Saville Row, renowned since the late 18th century for its bespoke tailoring, and an industrial factory.

“This led me to explore routes of activism and, pushing my understanding of space and how my work is viewed, resulted in me exhibiting and pushing my work into society through street art and social media influence.”

Over the past few months Ian has been sharing his imagery on social media but on a recent trip to London he staged a mini solo show of posters of the images and the detail of his research at a skate park on the Embankment and then at the Leake Street Arches near Waterloo station.

“I wanted to show them in a public space as well as online. The images provoked quite a response, mostly positive but also negative, which was really interesting and indicated that attitudes have changed but not universally yet.”

Ian, who is a lecturer on the BA (Hons) Costume Interpretation with Design degree course at The Northern School of Art’s university level campus in Hartlepool, has undertaken his research as part of his study on the School’s MA Design Practice course.

“I’ve been wanting to do further study for a while. I was looking for a master’s course that allowed me to focus on and develop my practical skills that was also close to my home, so when the School’s course launched it was ideal for me.

“I’ve really enjoyed exploring this topic, making the garments and achieving the end product. I’ve also pushed myself to use fabrics I haven’t used before which, along with the artists I’ve discovered as part of my research, will be fed back into my teaching practice.”

Reflecting on his project Ian commented: “My research has allowed me to push the idea of masculinity and how it does not have to fit a mould, an identity, certain physical garments or how it does not have to conform to being viewed in specific spaces, and to showcase how masculinity can remain organic.

“It has been a crazy few months of research, with an array of designing, pattern drafting, fittings, rethinking, construction and a few late nights. But it’s all been worthwhile to see everything come together, with so many more ideas to continue this exploration.”

Follow Ian’s research on his Instagram page @ianbowden_design

Further information about The Northern School of Art’s industry-focused creative school leaver diplomas, degrees and MA courses is available at www.northernart.ac.uk